Grand Island -- Büyükada

Istanbul's Adalar are nine small islands near the opening of the Bosphorus into the Sea of Marmara. Just 20km from the city, for centuries they were destinations for wealthy royalty of Istanbul---royal visitors sometimes on holiday, and sometimes on political exile. The largest is called Büyükada, often translated as "majestic-", "grand-", or simply "big-island" depending on how poetic the author is feeling.

~A glimpse of the still-wild part of the island (all photographs taken by Samantha)

My day's aventure began when, separated from the rest of the group, I missed the ferry from Kabataş. Luckily the deniz otobüsü (sea bus) also runs to Büyükada, twice the ferry fee and four times faster. Inside the deniz otobüsü all passengers sit in rows of air-conditioned seats rather like an airplane. I was disappointed that people can't sit outside and feel wind during the ride (like on the ferry) and questioning a crew member "why?" My question may have appeared more as a complaint, for the worker answered by taking me through the seats, up a small ladder into the cockpit, and introducing me to the captain. I had many questions; the captain and crew, curious about my curiosity, were happy to chat. They sat me in one of the two "driver's seats," served me tea, and the ship began to move.

Alice: "Do you enjoy this job? Why do you want to work on a ship?"
Crewman #1: "Ahh, because we have a view...see the water and birds?" and he was right, looking out the wide curved front window I felt the wonderful openness.
Crewman #2: "Because I can have everyday habits and I know what will happen here."
Crewman #3: "Listen, I want to learn English, but I need someone to teach me. Do you have a boyfriend?"

Alice: "Sorry, I'm not available. I wonder, do you think there should be less traffic on the Bosphorus? Trade is important, but I worry about accidents and pollution."
Crewman #2 (to his partner): "If you really want a girlfriend, you should take one from the internet. Tourists come to Istanbul for mosques and shopping, not for Turkish sailors."
Crewman #3: "I do look on the internet...listen, tell me, why do all women lie?"

Alice: "Well...I mean, I suppose, maybe women who are on the internet lie more than most women. Myself, I try to be honest." My rather feeble answer...
Crewman #3: "That's good, ya? What time do you come back from the island? I'm off tonight at 6 o'clock."
Captain: "Ok that's enough, all you get back to work."

~From the island looking across the sea at Istanbul's vast concrete-ness

Ten minutes later I stepped onto the dock of Büyükada, filled with Turkish nautical words and no wiser about Bosphorus trade. The most beautiful thing I immediately felt on the island was the lack of traffic (urban traffic, that is). Here cars and engines are forbidden. The entire population (about 10,000 permanent and 35,000 during the summers) travels by foot, bicycle, and horse-drawn carriages. Apparently there is a school and a health clinic for regular residents, along with all the restaurants and cafes for summer guests.

It's a wonderful day- or weekend-trip for Istanbulites. Hundreds of bicycles are for rent; our Turkish professor took one for the day and among the group we shared turns riding it up and down the steets. The horse-drawn carriages, painted with flowers and sometimes gilted gold, are grandly called fayton. I suppose it comes from the French word phaeton, and the Greek myth of Phaethon who died while driving his father Helios' sun-carriage across the sky.

~Horse corral, ready for rent

We walked past many old houses and mansions, the oldest perhaps from 1900. Most were wooden and shingled, some anciently decayed and some in beautiful condition for residence. We slowly climbed in elevation past a national park for picnicking and swimming, past an organic fig farm, and many corrals full of dirty and weary-looking horses. On the highest elevation, up a very steep cobblestoned road, is an old monastery. It's called Aya Yorgi Rum Ortodoks Manastırı for the famous St. George of Greek Orthodox Christianity.

~Restored villas now serving as inns

Though Istanbul was the capital of the Islamic Ottoman Empire since 1453, most of the islands in the Sea of Marmara stayed predominantly Greek Orthodox. After WWI, however, and continuing through the 20th century, most of the islands' ethnic Greek people left Turkey for Greece. The islands now mix Turkish, Armenian, and Greek, Catholic, Muslim, and Jewish families (though I don't know how smoothly...)

This monastery's historical story begins with the Turkish phrase which I'm learning to appreciate more and more: " Mevcut rivayetlere göre..." ("According to the current rumours...") A church was originally built in the 4th century, funded entirely by pledges and gifts from the local people, in honour of St. George's martyrdom. Over the following centuries it was attacked a few times, destroyed at least twice, and its members persecuted by Islamic forces. In the 17th century a shepard on Büyükada saw St. George in his dream and heard the words, "follow the sound of your sheep's bells and you will find my icon." With his sheep he climbed the hill, and among dry pines he found the ruins of the destroyed church. The building was reconstructed on the exact same location, and this is the one still standing today.

~Mediterranean climate, typical trees of higher elevations

Men of the church are still tending a few different varieties of fruit trees, though the site is no longer serving as a monastery. Beyond the church's surrounding stone walls, the far side of the island is undeveloped. It is a far different (and perhaps more beautiful) view than looking back down on the harbour filled with its spreading and colorful activites. To the east and south, only a few small paths and a silent road are visible down the mountainside to the sea. This place is incredibly beautiful in parts... and I wonder what will happen in its future.

~Swimming families and private boats anchored in the cove

~~~alice